![]() To loosen the tension or remove the belt, alternator would cock in the position to ease the tension. The alternator will allow to be moved forth and back. But some other older vehicles will allow you to loosen their bolts on the alternator, involving the bracket-retaining bolt. For example, lift 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE, remove the splash shield and tire(use the impact gun, car lift and a socket for wheel) or locate vehicle’s upper tensioner and determine which tool you should adjust the tension.ģ.If 333 is set up with this type of design, you should loosen slotted alternator bracket. Various kinds of vehicles use the different ways to adjust a belt tension adjustment mechanism and drive belts can be located in various areas.Ģ.Do what is needed to approach them and determine where tensioners are located on the individual belts. In the most cases, on 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE, there is belt tensioner that allows the proper tension to easily be adjusted.ġ.Begin with opening the hood and locating drive belt system. Some imports and most older vehicles may be using the combination of serpentine belts and V-belts in offset pulleys controlled by crankshaft pulley. And it also uses an internal pre-set spring. This kind of tensioner uses correct amount of tension into the belt. As the serpentine belts easily incorporate the automatic tensioner of belt, they do not require any tension adjustments. In the engine, the serpentine belt which activates and connects to every pulley is the most popular used recently. I am sure if I could get a hold of a good Hyundai tech who does timing belts all the time the answer would be clear.As most people know, there are many different methods to adjust V-belt tension or the drive belt in the 2007 Hyundai Elantra SE. Even the instructions I got from Hyundai (not one of their techs) greatly suffer from a lack of clarity. Usually most things now a days are idiot proof, but not this one I guess. I had no idea one needed an engineering degree to install this puppy. But if you think it is wrong I can still easily change it. It worked so well plus the fact that the notch now was smack in the middle of the circle, I thought that this is the way it must be. All I had to do was to put a screw driver under the tabs to prevent the base from moving when tightening the bolt. There is an edge underneath the recessed circle which provided a natural stopping point for the 2 metal tabs to grab on to. Shall I just replace the sensor or is there a way to test this puppy before I spend the money and get one. The car runs good, but I get a check engine code P0102, which I understand has something to do with the MAF sensor. Unfortunately I failed to register the position of the tensioner base plate's two metal tabs, not having any idea what this whole animal was all about, before I took it apart. The pointer is at or near the notch more or less and the belt tension feels correct as I remember it how it was before I removed the old belt. It just said that the pointer has to be within the notch +/- a little bit, because the spring tension will react to temperature changes that are different in a running car versus a turned off parked car. As a matter of fact their picture shows the pointer notch at 9 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock like we more or less did it. But the instructions did not mention any specific position the base has to assume. The tensioner was made by Gates and it came with installation instructions. If the indicator is not located at the center of base, slacken the bolt and repeat the above procedure. If it's still in the center of the base, then good to go. Rotate crankshaft two revolutions clockwise and recheck indicator. Once the indicator reaches the center of the notched area, hold that in place and then tighten the tensioner bolt to 21 lbs max. Use a 6mm hex key and move the adjuster counter-clockwise while looking at the indicator. Check the alignment of the timing marks on each sprocket. Install the tensioner bolt most of the way, but leave it so the adjuster can move with ease. Check out the attached pic to see what I mean. You want to make sure both of these are in the circle when you install them. ![]() There are two pieces of metal that stick out. The side of the belt with the idler pulley has most of the tension so it's pretty easy to slip the tensioner in there after the belt goes on. You can put the tensioner on before or after swapping out the belt. If not, I'm sure you can get another angle but the mirror makes it easy. A telescoping mirror helps when setting the tension so you can get a good look at the indicator. I had trouble with the indicator shifting after starting the car up.
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